How to properly pinch out tomatoes in a greenhouse and open ground step by step

During growth (often with strong nutrient supply), tomatoes produce numerous side shoots that subsequently compete with each other. These side shoots are called "side shoots." Numerous side shoots make tomato plants appear crowded. This leads to reduced yields. This also increases the risk of fungal diseases in the beds, as they are poorly ventilated. To achieve the desired yield, it's important to understand how to side shoot tomato plants.

Do tomatoes need to be pinched?

Two weeks after planting, the seedlings should be pinched out. Lateral shoots appear in the axils of the leaves located on the main stem of the plant. If left untreated, these shoots will quickly grow. The bush will develop numerous stems, which will drain nutrients.

Energy is directed toward the formation of the green part. This affects the fruit, preventing the tomatoes from ripening. Excessive density reduces air circulation, creating a favorable environment for fungal diseases. Fruit on unpruned bushes is smaller and often fails to ripen.

Pros and cons of the procedure

This procedure has a number of advantages:

• tomatoes are larger than on untreated bushes;
• the amount of harvest increases;
• better ovary formation;
• the fruits have different taste qualities;
• accelerates crop ripening by 12-16 days;
• By pruning leaves and shoots, the garden bed is ventilated, which helps prevent fungal diseases.

The disadvantages of pinching out side shoots become apparent when it is done incorrectly (a thick side shoot is cut off, or in damp weather):

• through the wound the plant can be affected by a fungal disease;
• cessation of flowering and death of the plant;
• growth slows down.

When is it necessary to pinch out the side shoots of tomatoes?

It's recommended to perform this procedure once or twice a week until the shoots reach 5 cm in length. If the shoots grow large, they draw away a lot of nutrients. Furthermore, removing a large number of adult shoots can cause stress on the plant.

It is recommended to pinch off in the morning, preferably in clear weather, so that the removal site can heal quickly.

When removing side shoots in cloudy weather, it's recommended to sprinkle the area where the shoot is removed with ash. If a new shoot emerges from a dormant bud in the place of the removed shoot, it should be removed again. Some shoots emerge from the flower cluster. It's also important to remove them to avoid inhibiting fruiting. In addition to side shoots, it's important to trim off the lower leaves in late May to early June. There should be no foliage under the cluster containing unripe fruit.

Types of pinching

There are three methods for shaping tomato plants. The choice of pinching method depends on how many shoots remain on the tomato plant. The following pinching methods are used.

In 1 stem

In this case, the side shoots are removed completely. Only the main stem should be left for fruiting. The bush grows quickly, and the fruit becomes large. The disadvantage of this variety is that the plant is tall and requires support, otherwise the bush will break under the weight of the fruit.

In 2 stems

In this case, leave one side shoot in addition to the main stem and remove the others. For fruiting, select a strong shoot located under the first inflorescence.

In 3 stems

This type of formation involves preserving the main stem and two shoots. Pinching is performed as follows:

• choose the strongest shoot located close to the lower inflorescence;
• find another strong enough branch next to it;
• remove the remaining stepsons.

What tools are needed?

The sprout is broken off from the stem by hand. It is recommended to wear gloves during this procedure, otherwise your hands will become discolored and will take a while to wash off. A small stub should be left behind; this will inhibit the development of the new sprout. Tomato stems are resilient and snap easily without damaging the rest of the plant. Pinch the sprout between your fingers and bend it.

If desired, you can use gardening tools such as scissors or pruning shears. The resulting wound will dry quickly in clear, dry weather.

How to properly remove side shoots from tomatoes step by step

Dwarf tomato varieties are preferable for growing outdoors, as they are easier to shape and secure. These tomato varieties are not deprived of all their shoots, as this would stunt the plant's growth. A side shoot, which forms under the first branch of the ovary, is left to continue growing. The method of shaping is chosen based on the cultivar.

Indeterminate varieties

These tomato varieties are considered to be unlimited-growing. If left unpruned, they can reach heights of up to 2 meters or more. Pinching these varieties is essential when cultivating tomatoes. Without this technique, tall plants become a sort of tree, from which it's difficult to expect a desired harvest. These plants require pinching and side shoots to limit the growth of the main stem.

Recommendations:

1. The seedlings are trained into a single stem to produce large fruits. After planting, observe the plants immediately. Pluck out all shoots in the leaf axils.
2. If several stems are being formed, 1-2 shoots are left on each, and the rest are removed.
3. Pinch off the remaining shoots over time.

Semi-determinate varieties

This tomato variety occupies a middle ground between the two leading types: indeterminate and determinate. It combines the advantages of both types: early maturity and a bush height (up to 2 m), making it suitable for cultivation in low-rise greenhouses.

Semi-determinate varieties form a compact bush with 2-3 leading stems. It's important to remove side shoots, prune, and pinch back.

The formation is carried out taking into account the following recommendations:

1. Train the plant into a single stem, leaving 1-2 side shoots at the top for reserve. Once the main stem has finished growing, the plant will continue to grow from the additional shoot. Remove any remaining side shoots.
2. If the height of the tomatoes exceeds the desired height (for example, greater than the height of the greenhouse), then when forming a single trunk, it is recommended to pinch the growing area a month before harvesting the last fruits.
3. When two main stems are needed, the second should be left under the first cluster. On the lateral shoot, two clusters should be left and pinched later. Depending on the bush's condition, 8 to 12 clusters will form.

Determinate varieties

Determinate varieties develop buds at the crown and stop growing. They grow to a height of no more than 110 cm. Determinate varieties are short. This variety requires pinching. The basic training method involves developing one or two shoots at the top of the bush:

1. First, form the main stem until the plant produces 3-4 clusters. Then, form two, selecting the best shoot. Forming two stems at once will slow down the plant's development. It's important to allow it to become well established.
2. After two inflorescences, leave another sprout, but this depends on weather conditions. It's important to have the harvest ready by the end of September.
3. One lower leaf is pruned weekly, which improves ventilation and activates the flow of valuable elements to the fruits.
4. In addition to the main shoot, you should leave one backup shoot. Remove the weaker one as soon as the main shoot stops growing.

The Fontanka variety is worth mentioning. It's early, reaching a height of no more than half a meter, spreading, and doesn't require pinching. It produces round, dense, fleshy fruits.

Features of tomato cultivation in a greenhouse

In greenhouse conditions, pinching out side shoots extends the fruiting period and allows for a larger harvest from a relatively small area. For a desired harvest in a relatively short period, it is recommended to choose determinate varieties. For these plants, only the leading stem is retained. A spare shoot should be left under the first inflorescence.

After the inflorescence appears, pinch off the top of the plant to stop further growth. When removing side shoots from tall and medium-sized plants, there's no need to leave a spare branch.

Indeterminate varieties are grown from a single stem, with 5-10 clusters growing on the main shoot. Excess foliage and side shoots that shade the tomato plant should be removed. Tomatoes grow more vigorously indoors, so they need to be pinched more frequently.

What are the dangers of ignoring the procedure?

If you don't remove lateral branches from tomato varieties that require it, several problems may arise:

• the tomato will grow;
• additional shoots will take nutrients from the branches that have fruits;
• with abundant development of the bush there may be no ovaries and fertilization, or it will be insignificant;
• the fruits are small in size;
• the harvest will take a long time to ripen;
• The tomatoes are tasteless and not fleshy.

Gardeners' mistakes

Common mistakes when shaping tomatoes:

1. Failure to perform side-sonning in a timely manner. It's important to maintain a consistent frequency. Removing a long shoot once a month will have little effect: it has already taken some of the plant's nutrients.
2. Cutting off a fruiting shoot instead of a side shoot. This happens to novice gardeners. When a shoot grows directly from the main stem and has an ovary, this branch is considered a fruiting branch.
3. Incorrect use of equipment. After pruning one bush, wipe the scissors with a disinfectant solution. This is necessary to prevent the spread of diseases, if any.
4. Overfertilizing the bushes. Even established bushes begin to produce side shoots.

Bush formation is crucial in tomato cultivation. It increases yield and reduces the risk of fungal diseases.