How to properly shape cucumbers in a greenhouse: diagram and step-by-step instructions

The method for cultivating cucumbers in a greenhouse depends on the variety planted and differs slightly from cultivating them in open beds. To properly perform the procedure, you need to follow a series of consistent steps and follow the recommendations of experienced gardeners. Pruning of the bush and stem is performed at specific stages of the vegetable crop's development.

Why is it necessary to shape cucumbers?

If you don't shape your cucumber bushes, the overgrown branches will interfere with the plant's normal development:

• the pollination process is impaired, as it is difficult for insects to reach the flowers through the thickets;
• all parts of the plant receive poor light and air, creating favorable conditions for the development of diseases and pests;
• all the energy and nutrients will go towards the growth of lateral branches, rather than towards the formation of the crop.

To prevent all these problems from arising, gardeners recommend tying up the stems in a timely manner, adjusting the growth point, and removing side shoots.

When should it be done?

Forming cucumber bushes begins almost immediately after planting them in a greenhouse or hotbed. After five days, begin tying them to the support, and after a couple more days, remove excess side branches.

The right time to perform this procedure is when four pairs of true leaves have formed on the stem. It is recommended to trim all lateral shoots from the lower part of the stem.

What is the difference between plant formation in a greenhouse and in open ground?

The question of how to train cucumbers in open ground often troubles beginning vegetable growers. The process itself is no different from that carried out indoors. There are a few other differences:

• Gardeners who have grown cucumbers in a greenhouse note that the crop grows more vigorously and quickly, so shaping should be done more frequently.
• In greenhouse conditions, seedlings need fewer days to root. The roots gain strength more quickly and begin to form new branches, so the process of planting should begin earlier.

How to properly shape cucumbers?

It is important to properly shape cucumbers; to do this, you need to follow some rules:

• It is necessary to pick barren flowers in time;
• the instrument must be sharp and disinfected;
• It is better to carry out the shaping in the morning hours (the wounds will be able to heal during the whole day);
• Work carefully with the central upper branches, as if damaged, the bush may die completely;
• the leaves of the bottom row are removed;
• dry leaves, damaged branches and bad fruits need to be picked from the bush;
• You cannot leave stumps after cutting, as this increases the risk of fungal infections.

The formation procedure in a polycarbonate greenhouse is carried out regularly, at intervals of 7 days or even more often.

The shaping process begins with tying the bush to a support. There are three methods for proper tying:

1. For the horizontal method, two wooden or metal stakes (it's important that they be tall) are installed in the ground on either side of the bed. A rope is stretched between them.
2. If vertical training is planned, a rope is stretched between the stakes at the very top. A piece of fabric is then run from this rope to each bush, allowing the cucumber vines to climb up it.
3. There's also a combined garter option. In this case, a net is installed near the bed, and the vines cling to it with their tendrils.

Stepchildren are removed by following a series of sequential steps specified in the instructions:

• lateral shoots are removed starting from the lower part of the stem up to the 5th leaf;
• at a height of 85 cm, two shoots should be left (their length is reduced to 20 cm) with two leaves;
• starting from a stem height of 125 cm, the length of the side branches should not exceed 40 cm (2 leaves and two ovaries are left on them);
• at a height of 155 cm, 4 leaves and the same number of ovaries are left on the shoots;
• then the top is pinched.

All these steps will help form a neat, productive bush. This will ensure free access of air and light to all parts of the plant. The resulting greens will be sweet, crisp, and uniform.

Parthenocarpic varieties

Parthenocarpic (self-pollinating) hybrid cucumber varieties do not require insect pollination, as only female inflorescences are produced. Most inflorescences are located on the main stem, so all efforts should be directed toward its development.

Self-pollinating cucumber varieties quickly gain foliage. Side-sonning begins three weeks after planting in the greenhouse. By this time, 5-6 true leaves should appear, and the plant should reach a height of 35 cm.

The bush formation scheme is simple:

• In the axils of the first five leaves of the bottom row, flowers and ovaries must be removed.
• Next, you need to leave six shoots. They are shortened, leaving a length of 25 cm. One leaf is left on each branch and the shoots are removed.
• Pinching begins with the 9th shoot. Leave two leaves and two ovaries. The shoots should be approximately 45 cm long.
• As soon as the bush reaches the height of the installed support, the top is directed downwards and cut off.

Bee-pollinated varieties

Bee-pollinated cucumber varieties Without pollination, cucumbers will not form ovaries. Bee-pollinated cucumber varieties require slightly different training. This group of vegetables differs in the way ovaries and fruits form on the side branches. In most cases, male inflorescences and sterile flowers appear on the main stem. Therefore, it is better to train two or three stems.

These varieties are more suitable for growing in open garden beds, but with proper training they can also be grown in a greenhouse.

Step-by-step instructions will help you carry out the procedure correctly:

• the central stem is not pinched until it reaches a high point;
• in the axils of the 5 lower leaves, remove stepsons, ovaries and flowers;
• in the next two axils, only the rudiments of the lateral branches are removed;
• then the side branches of two levels are pinched, leaving a length of 20 cm;
• the following shoots are shortened so that their length remains 40 cm;
• closer to the top of the main stem, the length of the branches should be 52 cm;
• The top of the bush is directed downwards and pinched.

If you properly train cucumbers and follow all recommendations, you will be able to grow a good harvest.